Kaabbua Cloth

Kaabbua cloth has an uncertain history. Some say it originated from the traditional weaving styles of the Isan people, while others attribute its invention to Khun Chai but Suriya. What is clear, however, is that Kaabbua cloth, highly praised and recognized, is the creation of Mrs. Kampun Tae Suriya, a National Artist from Ubon Ratchathani Province. The fabric is remarkable for its intricate weaving process, which combines at least four different techniques in one piece: alternating warp colors into striped patterns, pattern tying, spinning threads into "squirrel tails," and lifting patterns (adding raised designs). The masterwork often includes the use of silver or gold threads, making Kaabbua cloth a unique amalgamation of Isan weaving techniques.

Because of its combination of various techniques, Kaabbua cloth stands out in both color and texture. From a distance, the fabric appears to have colored stripes, created by using more than two colors of warp in the same tone, giving the fabric a distinct dimension. The main patterns throughout the fabric are reminiscent of Mudmee weaving, a traditional northeastern technique. Upon closer inspection, the raised texture created by weaving convex lines in both patterns and straight lines becomes visible, and the use of "squirrel tail" silk adds another layer of texture, showcasing the rich wisdom of the Tai-Lao ethnic group.

Kaabbua cloth shares similarities with Mudmee in that the thread is tied similarly before weaving, but it goes through an additional process to make "squirrel tail" silk and raised flowers during weaving. Special Kaabbua cloth may have patterns resembling the jok style found in northern Thailand, with silver and gold threads added to enhance the designs. This intricate combination of techniques makes Kaabbua cloth not only a work of textile art but also a stunning choice for wearable clothing.

Thank you to the source:

• Book: Weave Thread is Saisin
• Kaabbua Cloth
• Thai Textile: Top 10, Page 74