1. Hole Cloth
Hole cloth belongs to the Mudmee category and is often used in ceremonies. It uses little silk, resulting in light, dense, smooth, and soft fabric with colorful patterns characteristic of the Surin people, influenced by Khmer art. Hole weaving can be divided into four types: Holphra, Holsarai, Holkiat, and Holpana.
Hole Fabric Tying
The tying of hole cloth involves segmenting the silk using Mee 21 Lam to tie the fibers according to the pattern, using different colored straws to determine the colors step by step.
- When dyed in red water, untied areas will become red. Once the desired color is achieved, it is washed and dried.
- Details such as a small red dot (Bai Hai pattern) are wrapped with straw rope about 0.5 cm wide.
- After removing certain straw ropes, it is dyed blue. The dye combines with previous colors to produce shades like dark tamarind, almost black, or green from mixing blue with yellow. Alum is used as a mordant to help fix the colors.
- After dyeing, the fibers are turned into small tubes or bunched together. When woven into fabric, a common type is 3-tako weave, while a 2-tako weave has a thinner texture. The back of 3-tako fabric is darker than the front, whereas 2-tako fabric has a similar pattern on both sides.
2. Amparam Cloth
Ampram cloth, also known as "Jongra cloth," is only available in one place in Thailand. It features a square pattern made from sparse tie-dyeing with white spots throughout. It is tie-dyed in both warp and weft on a red background, characteristic of the Kui people's style. Careful attention is needed during weaving to maintain the intended pattern.
3. Anchor Cloth
Anchor cloth features a small square grid pattern and is used in daily life by the Kui people. The colors come from natural dyes, such as blue from indigo or yellow from turmeric. The focus is on ancient natural dyeing techniques.
4. Anlunsim Cloth
Anlunsim fabric is created by twisting silk fibers together, combining 2-5 strands of different colored silk to form a single strand. The result is a glimmering texture with visible straight patterns. Only four colors are used: golden yellow, green, red, and white.
5. Labeak Cloth
Labeak cloth is a type of Kui fabric that appears to have a floating pattern due to the unique arrangement of colors. It involves arranging warp threads in a specific order, alternating colors according to weaving principles. The original colors of the fabric are often mixed with white.
6. Sago Cloth
Sago cloth closely resembles Ampram cloth, with the main difference being that the sago pattern is larger by about half an inch.
7. Squirrel Tail Cloth (Kaniao Cloth)
For those interested in purchasing silk for sewing luxury dresses, you can visit www.silkket.com to explore our collection, including plain-colored silk, Mudmee pattern silk, and more. Our products are crafted with expert quality and meticulous care.
We are proud to help preserve this beautiful culture. Contact the Chap Mai store team for assistance and additional advice through LineOA: @chobmai. Thank you for your interest, and we are happy to serve you.
```