Pha Yok Phum Riang / Pha Yok Mueang Nakhon

Pha Yok Phum Riang or Pha Yok Mueang Nakhon refers to the same type of fabric. Originally produced mainly in Phum Riang District, Surat Thani Province, the weaving knowledge comes from Nakhon Si Thammarat, passed down from Indian craftsmen.

This type of brocade uses gold threads woven into the fabric, creating intricate patterns that make it expensive.

The charm lies in the complex patterns, as each piece is at least 3 meters long and features different patterns throughout. Skilled craftsmanship is essential to change patterns at various stages.

Originally, it was believed that this golden cloth was ordered by the Thai court from India. However, as the city of Nakhon Si Thammarat adopted Indian weaving techniques, gold cloth began to be woven domestically, reflecting more Thai characteristics and allowing customization according to weaver preferences.

Later, Her Majesty Queen Sirikit initiated the restoration of the golden cloth tradition for use in royal khon costumes. This led to the use of larger looms, which reduced weaving time, but still required over half a year for each piece.

The main difference between traditional and loom-assisted weaving is the coloring. Traditional woven fabric cannot change its base color, so it is often a single color. In royal khon performances, accessories are used to add color, making traditional looms preferred for important ceremonies.

Unfortunately, traditional golden cloth weaving is on the verge of disappearing, with only three master weavers remaining. Pum Riang weaving is thus considered a pinnacle of Thai textile art, valued for both craftsmanship and cultural heritage.

Thank you for the source:

• Thai Textile book: Pha Yok Phum Riang/Pha Yok Mueang Nakhon
• Book: Weaving Thread as an Art Line
• Pha Yok Phum Riang/Pha Yok Mueang Nakhon
• Thai Textile: Top 10, Pages 50-55