Pearl Cloth Pattern (Jong Cloth, Tewmuk Sarong, Tintam Cloth, Nae Salik Cloth)
The pearl cloth in the Northeast, known as Jong cloth, features unique patterns such as the "Ia pattern" and others from the Phu Thai people in Mukdahan Province and Chao Kaleng in Nakhon Phanom Province. The Phu Thai people weave Jong cloth using a special warp reinforcement technique to create patterns like the "Eia pattern," which looks like wavy fingers and fish zigzags. Similarly, the Kaling people create beautiful "Naga" patterns in Jong cloth, resulting in stunning sarongs with pearl details.
Pearl Sarong Pattern
Another notable pattern is the "Pearl Sarong Pattern," which is prominent in the Northeast. The Tai-Lao people in Ubon Ratchathani are especially skilled in weaving intricate patterns, while the Thai people of Khmer and Kui descent in Sisaket and Surin provinces apply their own variations in weaving, creating designs that are widely loved and appreciated.
In many provinces, the Tai-Lao, Tai Yo, and Tai So communities are known for weaving "Tha Nae Cloth Foot Patterns," featuring straight lines arranged like a rat's foot. This simple but elegant design is popular in the region.
Creating Patterns Using the "Mook Raft" Technique
The "Mook Raft" technique for making raised pearl cloth involves adding special warp lines to create textured patterns. It requires two sets of looms and warp, with the first set positioned at a higher level than the second. The weaving process also uses a stone or cement pendulum system to counterbalance and polish the cloth pattern, resulting in intriguing and beautiful designs.
Reviving Pearl Cloth Weaving Techniques
Currently, some communities where pearl cloth weaving had faded are working to revive these traditional techniques to preserve Isaan textile wisdom. The goal is to pass this knowledge on to future generations, encouraging them to appreciate the beauty and intricacy of pearl cloth patterns.
Summary
Weaving in the Northeast showcases a range of interesting patterns, particularly in Pha Chong and Pha Sarin Tew Muk, which are unique and captivating. The creation of pearl cloth patterns involves fun and meticulous techniques that communities are working to preserve. The art of weaving pearl cloth in the Northeast represents an important aspect of Thai cultural heritage, offering an opportunity to explore the richness and diversity of Isaan textile wisdom.
Thank You to the Source
Intellectual Heritage Book: Isaan Textiles
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