Tinjok Cloth
The famous and well-known Tin Chok cloth is often associated with Mae Chaem cloth, but other members of this family include Tai Lue cloth, Tai Yuan cloth, and Lao Khrang cloth. Tinjok cloth is a part of the Tai Lue-Yuan cultural heritage, originating from the Lanna civilization. Through migration, both voluntary and forced, the production of Tinjok cloth spread to many regions of Thailand. Although different styles and patterns have evolved in response to changing social contexts, the production methods continue to follow traditional wisdom passed down from ancestors.
Pha Chok is a narrow cloth with beautiful patterns used mainly at the bottom of a sarong. It is not used in daily life due to its delicate nature and the elaborate designs. This patterned cloth is typically reserved for important ceremonies, particularly merit-making events. When used, the bottom of the sarong is attached to a plain body, and when finished, it is removed and stored for later use. The traditional weaving technique uses a loom, and the pattern must be woven horizontally, requiring the weaver to carefully observe the continuity of the lines throughout the weaving process.
Tinjok sarongs have special patterns distinct from the everyday sarongs. The elaborate patterns used at the bottom of these sarongs are known as "Tin Chok." The major production areas for Tinjok cloth, where the traditional characteristics are still preserved, are Mae Chaem District in Chiang Mai Province and Si Satchanalai District in Sukhothai Province. Weaving Tinjok cloth involves both weaving and embroidery simultaneously, creating intricate designs throughout the cloth.
Jok is a weaving technique involving the addition of special threads at regular intervals, rather than across the entire fabric. It involves using tools such as sticks, porcupine quills, or even a little finger to lift colorful threads onto the warp to create intricate patterns.
- Traditional Tinjok Cloth of Mae Chaem: Originating from the Tai Yuan group, these cloths are often dyed with natural colors. They use black warp threads for the main patterns and red warp threads for the lower part of the sarong, which typically does not feature a pattern, except for small black and white stripes called "Hang Sapao." Mae Chaem's traditional weaving is distinguished by weaving the back side of the fabric on top.
- Traditional Tinjok Cloth of Ban Hat Siao: Derived from the Tai Phuan group, these cloths are often woven with red cotton for both warp and weft. Silk threads dyed in multiple colors are used to create intricate patterns. The red background is prominent in the design, and the pattern features small yellow nails at the bottom edge, while the front of the fabric is placed on top during weaving.
Today, the use of larger looms in weaving allows for continuous production, with the pattern extending through the entire length of the fabric, eliminating the need to attach the bottom of the skirt to the main body. This makes it more convenient for everyday use. Additionally, the use of vertical stripes allows for greater ease in pattern creation. The beauty of Tinjok cloth lies in the gradual insertion of different colored threads, creating unique, often symmetrical patterns. These designs may also reflect cultural beliefs, featuring symbols like birds, Naga, or water pots.
Weavers often change the thread color when the main pattern ends, resulting in a vibrant and beautiful "frog's feet" section. For women of high social status, gold or silver threads are sometimes added to enhance the fabric's intricacy. Some ethnic groups have developed Tinjok patterns that cover the entire piece rather than being restricted to the bottom section, but these fabrics are still referred to as Tinjok skirts.
For those interested in purchasing silk for luxury dressmaking, you can visit www.silkket.com. Our shop offers a wide variety of silk fabrics, including plain colored silk, Mudmee patterned silk, and local and national silks, all crafted meticulously by skilled technicians.
The shop aims to preserve this beautiful cultural heritage. Contact the Chap Mai store team for assistance in choosing products and for additional advice through LineOA: @chobmai. Thank you for your interest and for choosing our products. "Do you like it?" is happy to serve you.
Thank you to the source:
- Traditional Craftsmanship Books: National Cultural Heritage, Compiled by the Department of Cultural Promotion
- Book: Weave Thread is Saisin
- Tinjok Cloth
- Thai Textile: Top 10, Page 68