Weaving Machines and Equipment in the Northeastern Region

Weaving machines in the northeastern region of Thailand are called "weaving machines" in the local dialect. They are referred to as “Huak” by the Phu Thai and Thai-Lao groups in the upper Isan area, and “Kee” by the Thai Khmer and Kui groups in the lower Isan area. Each ethnic group’s weaving machine has unique characteristics, while also showing traces of cultural relationships due to cohabitation or historical interactions.

All ethnic groups in the Northeastern region use a stand loom, a type suitable for an agricultural society. These looms are made from solid hardwood using a wooden dowel system for easy assembly and disassembly. The main components of the stand loom are:

• The Main Pillar of the Loom Stand: Four square pillars, except for Kui or Khmer groups who use two tall and two short pillars.
• The Loom Beam: A wooden beam connecting the four main pillars. Threads are tied to the front and back beams, with variations among different ethnic groups.
• Seat Cushion (Bench): A wooden seat for the weaver to place weaving equipment such as baskets for thread spools.
• Cloth Beam: A square piece of wood used to store finished fabric, known as "Mai Kamphan."
• Mai Hap Huok: A medium-sized bamboo cylinder tied to wooden beams to support ropes and pulleys.
• Loom Pedal (Treadles): Bamboo sticks tied to a Tako or horn for stepping, used to control the warp yarn.
• Tako or Khao (Heddle): A yarn panel woven together with a warp yarn network, allowing the weaver to create different fabric patterns.
• Beater/Batten: A device consisting of comb teeth (Reed beam) used to strike the weft yarn to form a cloth.

Tai-Lao Weaving Machine

The Tai-Lao ethnic group is the largest group in the northeastern region, with populations scattered across upper and lower Isan. They use a stand-type weaving loom with four main pillars and an upper wooden beam. The loom is similar to those used by the Thai-Yuan in northern Thailand, showing historical relationships between Lanna and Lan Chang. This loom features a lower beam to extend the warp yarn network.

Phu Thai Weaving Machine

The Phu Thai community resides in areas like Kalasin and Mukdahan provinces, continuing the weaving tradition. Their loom is similar to the Tai-Lao loom but does not have the lower wooden beam, allowing them to use less space.

Thai-Khmer Weaving Machine

The Thai-Khmer people, mainly in Surin Province, have their own weaving style. Their looms use a "3 tako weaving" system, which makes their fabric denser. The structure includes both tall and short pillars, with unique carving details that demonstrate cultural artistry.

Kui/Suai Style Weaving Machine

The Kui (Suai) ethnic group, known for their sericulture, uses a distinctive loom structure. Their weaving machines often lack a traditional standing line and instead use bamboo segments. The Kui weaving machine has a simplified structure, using only two pillars.

Weaving Equipment

• Beater and Reed Beam: Used to strike the warp yarn, originally made of bamboo but now often replaced with metal for durability.
• Crutches: A support device that helps separate and strengthen the threads during weaving, also known as "sword wood."
• Walking or Bow: Made of bamboo, this device helps stretch the fabric consistently during weaving.
• Bunches of Bazer Blacks: Tools made of pine or boar hair used to comb the yarn, keeping it clean and organized.
• Rouging: A support device for raising the level of weaving materials, traditionally carved from hardwood with intricate patterns.

For those interested in purchasing silk for luxury dress sewing, please visit www.silkket.com. Our shop offers a variety of plain colored silk, Mudmee pattern silk, and other types of silk with high-quality craftsmanship by skilled artisans.

Contact the Silkket store team for assistance through LineOA: @chobmai. Thank you for your support in preserving this beautiful culture.